Margalef success

The time came around pretty quickly to make my way to Margalef. Was I fully ready? This is a tough question as i picked up a slight niggle whilst in Font, Managed to be pretty disciplined and chill for the rest of Font then get some milage done indoors the week before we left.

Arriving at the airport on saturday the psyche was pretty high, looking forward to some dry days, drinking beer and wine, and some warmer weather. Well, so far we have had two of the three, it's FREEZING!! So the climbing has been hard lots of pockets, i was expecting these but somehow i was expecting it not to be as harsh as it is. But not having ever climbed on pockets or trained for them then the body will take some time to adapt.

Before this post gets too dark lets talk about the joy;

The aims for the trip were to climb a good few routes in the sevens and possibly work a 7c. Looking at the 7c's I think I might just stick to getting plenty of lower 7's done and then hopefully try flash or on-sight one.

Yesterday conditions were cold very cold. Warming up was hard to do as by the time you got to third bolt your fingers where totally numb and then the hot aches kicked in. I thought instead of wasting energy on the easier routes it would be good to just jump on a 7a and warm up on that. Five clips then a good hands off rest at a ledge i thought this would be prime as there would be plenty of time to recover and get some feeling back into the fingers. Managing to get just underneath the ledge my weakness kicked in...... a mantle shelf! Hanging around for too long I got pumped and cold and failed so thought I would work the moves then get it quickly on the redpoint, finding a sequence that worked for me and still quite a committing move I was at the hands off rest. The top section of the route looked amazing lots of pockets, well placed clips and just steep enough so you knew you couldn't relax and hang around too long. From the rest at the ledge i managed to get the top section in  one, but as the warm up was hard i was boxed! Felt so tired, having a nice long rest and watching John try Tony Kaneloni which looks so good, proper long with quite a few burly moves. Hopefully he will send it soon after working the sequence and the temps rise, fingers crossed ey!

So back down to Franja De Ponent (7a) somebody was on it so this meant I had to wait which wasn't all bad as I could watch their sequence and make sure it was clear in my head. Times up and it's my go, first section went really smoothly and I got to the ledge again, but into a panic I went, for the life of me i could not remember the sequence to get onto the ledge. After falling I felt I best get this sequence nailed as this was the only thing letting me down on the redpoint. Two hands on the ledge, right hand up to a gaston jug, left foot up high on an edge, left hand up to a flat hold and pull, you are on the ledge. Easy! I was about the carry on to the top when Dave shouts up why don't you come down have 20 mins then jump back on, good plan as any energy used to get to the top would have been a waste as the top section was on lock down.

After a rest and watching Ian work the moves back onto the rope I tie, boots tied up tight, jumper off, chalk up the hands, take a deep breath and away I go. First section big hand ledge, high left foot and roll over into a 2 finger pocket for the right hand, lock this down and reach a big left handed hold, breath. Make the clip and a series of pocket moves until just below the resting ledge, hands on the ledge and it's done, before i know it I am on the resting ledge breathing and shaking out. Then after a good rest a deep breath i carry on sequence dialled I am at the top before I know it! 

SUCCESS Wahoo!!

Big Malc Smith on an 8a!

Quick update

Last update 19th October! Damn its been too long.
I keep going to write posts then realise that there isn't any pictures and it's all just words.
But whats been going on?
Well I now finally own my own T5 which i am in the process of converting the back out to make it comfortable to sleep in. So a lot of time and money is going into that as a full time project.
Climbing wise well the weather has been dump so not been outdoors in the UK for a while just training a little indoors trying to stay fit and not eat or drink too much.
Font was a bit of an unsucsessful trip with the whole forest being sat in a cloud for the majority of the week a lot of my time was spent drinking. Still managing two 7a's it wasnt a total waste of time just more frustration as i tweaked a finger on a problem.
Focus now is on Spain for a sport climbing holiday, away for christmas? Some people think i am mad but really what do we do on christmas?? Eat too much? Drink too much? See family we see all the time? Exactly so why not have a change.
The psyche levels are high and i have been watching quite a few video two of which stick out in my mind. One got my psyche levels off the scale and made me want to live in Scotland. The other made me want to be able to crush hard trad! Both are embedded below so have a watch.
Just a short one with the promise of more regular posts with plenty of photos of both the van and a full round up of Font.


Scottish Icetrip in Ben Nevis - English by Petzl-crew

Lakes, Lakes, Lakes....

I had never done much climbing in the Lake District up until lately. Last weekend I went on a bit of a social visit so didn't think i would get much climbing done but managed to get out both days and get some ticking done.
Saturday 24th:
The morning was taken up by visiting my cousin Craig and his wife Liz, the plan was to go to the school where he works and to help him on a few things with his new climbing wall.
After spending four hours solid climbing, grading and setting some new routes for him the rain had finally stopped so we headed over to Borrowdale to Shepherds Crag. Only thing i had ever done here before was Little Chamonix the VD multi-pitch. Things were still pretty damp but we got on with it and got some ticking done. Craig lead C.M.D (VS 4c) which is a pleasent steep crack. then I lead Chamonix (HS 4b) which has quite a committing little move in it. Then decided i wanted something a little bit harder so opted for Kransit Crack Direct (HVS 5a) setting off and realising it's a crack that requires jamming...... but i didn't jam so it was all good ;)
Sunday 25th:
Craig wasn't climbing today so i had planned to meet up with Roger and Kris who were in the Langdale valley, i set off but the weather wasn't looking too promising so i was a little bit pesimistic about the day. Turned out to be a brilliant day, heading up to Raven Crag, although asking Roger what he wanted to do sounded like he had pretty much ticked everything on the crag up to E1. So i got on the classic Revelation (HS) which was brilliant, the climb is supposed to be multipitch but it is possible to link it into one big pitch. Moved across then on to East Raven as it was getting busy! Turned out everyone had the same idea as us. This is a fairly small single pitch crag with some really nice climbing on compact solid rock, Roger got on Jingo (VS 4b) and Baskerville (VS 4c) and lived up to his name by Crusing them. Kris lead Mamba (S 4b) which had some realy nice moves on it and i finished the day by doing The Chopper (HVS 5a) the climbing felt pretty steady to me and the gear was all bomber, but a slightly run out section in the middle kept me on my toes. I came home to later find out that the majority of people find this hard for HVS and hard for 5a! So i was psyched.
Good weekend ticking 8 routes in two days and also being sociable with my cousin.

Thursday 29th:
Just an easy day, with the the weather forecast being so good for so late in the year it would have been rude not to make another trip up to the lakes to try to get one last shot in at some mountain routes. We left Liverpool pretty late in the day but still managed to get some climbing in after setting up our tent at the National Trust site. We wanted somewhere close with a good selection of easy routes so that Helen could get into the swing of things an ideal choice was Raven Crag Walthwaite, i had heard good reviews about this crag with the walk in being short and the single pithc routes being of superb quality with solid rock and addequit gear. This description was spot on, i thought i would give Helen the first lead and throw her in at the deep end on Enterprize VS 4c, i knew that this was a little bit soft for the grade but would be good to build her confidence and as i presumed she cruised up it in a smooth style. Followed then by seconding me up Tritus a nice steep HVS, to then lead a small HS multi pitch Route 2, this was good practice as we had plans to head up to Gimmer and with her not doing much multi pitch before she could do with practicing setting up belays and getting slick on the rope work. The day was finished off by a nice E1 called Swing to the Right and a pint in Wainwrights.

Friday 30th:
The weather was still fantastic, because the campsite is in a valley and the time of the year it was there was a lot of dew on the floor in the morning but with clear blue skies and the sun rising we knew we were in for a beautiful day. The plan today was to head over to a multipitch crag called Wallowbarrow, from reading the guidebook and the recomendation of others it was clear there were some superb multipitch routes here ranging from VD up to HVS. Arriving at the base of the crag i thought i would give Helen the choice of the route, as i suspected she picked a nice 3 pithc Severe called Thomas, after leading the first pitch she arrived at what was the belay to find that the tree described in the guidebook was no longer there! To which she felt slightly uneasy and then realised she had to make do, this is a perfect example of taking what the guidebook says with 'a pinch of salt'. All three pitches were fantastic climbing, nice and easy but a brilliant route. Next on the list after some water and a bite to eat was Digitation this HS started off with a 40m pitch up a solid looking slab, in the guidebook it says it has a tricky overlap and this time the guidebook was right, having minimal feet but a slopey ledge for my hands a found myself mid mantleshelf thinking "hmm this is certainly interesting for the grade?" as i thought Helen managed to find a foot hold and do it a lot smoother than me. Well that must be the boulderer within! I wanted to finish the day off with something a little harder and two nice guys there recommended a VS called Malediction Direct, with a scramble for the first pitch at the belay it splits off and goes into three different routes, and i definatley think we had been pointed to the best of them! With some fantastic positions and bomber gear the steep climbing had me in my element and made a pleasant finish to the day.

Saturday 1st:
This was the big one! Although i had doubts that it was going to happen after waking in the night to hear that all too often sound of rain on the top of the tent. When we woke in the morning the rain had stopped but the valley was sat in some low lying cloud, with the forecast not as clear there was a little uncertainty within me. But i was being optimistic so suggested we go for it and if its wet we would at least get a nice day out walking. Turns out the optimism paid off after a brutal one hours slog up hill we finally reached a relatively flat piece of hillside from where you can see the outstanding barrel shaped face of Gimmer Crag. Having never been here before i knew any route i did would be a good one, but i always have the slight bit of selfishness if i am walking that far i really want to do another route that will count towards my MIA training. Arriving at the base of the South East face we were greeted by two old guys who have spent more time in the mountains than Rich has hanging out in the cave ;) only for them to say "good afternoon (it was still monring though) what time do you call this?" you have got to love the sense of humor of the climbing community.
We headed round to what we thought would be relatively straight forward to get to which was Ash Tree Ledge only to realise it was a pretty exposed scramble to get to it, still with our packs on our backs i think this managed to push Helen out of her comfort zone and freak her out slightly, upon reaching the ledge we met another party just about to set off up Springbank the E2, i asked Helen how she felt and not suprisingly she was pretty nervous, after looking at the first pitch of Kipling Groove she decided she didn't really want to lead it. This left me in a dilemma "do i lead both pitches" or "do a different route"?? I was so psyched to do Kipling Groove because it had been on my list for ages i decided i would lead both pitches and we would swap over on the first belay. This turned out to be the best decision i managed to get two fanastic pitches both with absolutley bomber gear and a pretty sustained 5a second pitch. I felt really good as i didn't feel uneasy at any point on the climb and it felt like i was going really well. Helen seconded up it and came over the top with a huge grin on her face. After abseiling back down it was only 3 o'clock so another route was needed after that walk in, again the lead was down to me so i chose North West Arete a 3 star VS 4b, 42m of solid climbing on really nice holds some super moves with enought exposure to make you keep concentrating, this route was a brilliant finish to the few days. And who would of thought climbing on Gimmer in October in a t-shirt!!!!
Back to the Old Dungeon Ghyll for a well earned pint!

Picture by Gordon Stainforth UKC

Lazy but also busy

I get so lazy filling this thing in sometimes. I think of something brilliant to write but then when it comes to it i can never be arsed.
To sum things up though i've been climbing loads, found my psyche with a week long trip to Font booked for November and 10 days sport climbing in Spain in December i need to get strong and fit.
Spent four days in the Lakes at the bank holiday and had various other days out sport climbing and trad climbing i feel like i can move on rock again and i'm getting that confidence back to go past bolts or gear.
Anyways i promise i will update more regularly from now on, with more pictures less words and more psyche!!
To keep you occupied for now though check out this short video i made from Parisella's Cave:

Multi-pitch experience

So today was my first day off since last Thursday. Been working my arse off, but it will all be worth it when i get a van!!

After last Thursday being a wash out and only managing an indoor session i really keen to get out and get on some real rock. I had arranged with Helen to take her over to North Wales to go do some multi-pitch as she had never done any before.

I took a while thinking of a venue because i thought it would be a good challenge for me to pick correct routes for somebody to gain the confidence in climbing multi-pitch.

I remember a while ago i heard a friend telling me about Crackstone Rib on Carreg Wastad being a straight forward climb but with a really exposed feeling, so I thought this would be a good opportunity to see if Helen's head was in it.

Wow what a classic climb, the climbing was fantastic, good holds all the way up and really good gear. I lead the first pitch to show Helen how to set up a belay, although having done her SPA she lacked a little bit of confidence so i thought this was the correct thing to do. Good choice as she picked it up fine and could get a lead on the second pitch.

Next up on the list was Skylon a HS but it looked nice and clean and fairly straight forward. She had a little bit of a leg wobble midway up the pitch but managed to keep it together to crush the route. I was made up for her and was a brilliant climb to second up as well.

As we topped out we felt some speckles of rain and then the heavens opened on us.

This only meant one thing....Coffee time as V12 in Llanberis :)

I was slightly gutted as i was really keen to get on Over Lapping wall... Ahh well next time ey!!

Just to ruin the day though we got back to Helen's to discover a parking ticket on my car for parking in the visitor car park :s yeah i was really confused but turns out you have to get a visitors pass.. But none of them knew.

Well I'm pretty sure i won't be paying that after Helen has finished with them on the phone!!

Time for something new

So days are passing by and i feel stuck in a rut, i've heard plenty of people say "life's to short!"
What next i keep asking myself, I am enjoying work at the wall but the simple fact is i don't want to be here for the rest of my life! Looking at what other people have done since finishing university makes me think why aren't i off doing that? There is people in Canada, Fiji, Nepal... people have been working the UAE. And here is me still in Liverpool.
Before this gets on to a rant i'm going to stop myself and get to the point of the post.
The job i was hoping to apply for at Plas y Brenin came up on their vacancies the other day and i read through it and decided that i haven't got the relevant experience at this time, so i called up a few friends who are in similar positions but with a bit more experience and they suggested applying for the Nightwatch scheme at Glenmore Lodge, so i looked into this and it sounds perfect.
I mean being based in Scotland for a full year (a full winter) i got super psyched and downloaded the application form and started to fill it out, turns out when i think about it i've got quite a lot of climbing under my belt. Pretty varied as well from bouldering font 7b+ to leading winter grade V. One vital thing i think is missing from my CV is my D1 so i got on to sorting it all out.. more complex than i thought it would be have to apply for a provisional, and get a medical from the GP at £80!! Well i know it will be worth it when i get it as it is like another NGB award in itself.
I feel I am actually making a concious effort now to move on and get the experience i require, also my finger is feeling better so gently started to train on it again indoors over the past week and it feels good, now to get fit for Fontainbleau in November!!
Even feeling slightly down i realised it wasn't just me who was feeling like this after reading Owens blog (Raw Edge Days) i realised the psyche level in Liverpool is pretty low. Lets hope the weather picks up and people get more motivated!!

Mountain pleasure!

So still nursing that dodgy finger! What a pain, all training indoors has been put on hold just been keeping up with the running anf cycling to work (averaging 16mph over 8 miles, not bad ey?).

Well got a day off on Tuesday and so did Roger, so we planned to head over to Wales, to Ogwen to be precise!

Last time we planned to go out we ended up on Catell Helen and freezing then bailing early to the cafe for a coffee.

This time we were lucky with the weather, hoping to climb at Craig Yr Ysfa the sun was shining and the wind wasn't too strong, we went for it and go on with the 1.5hr walk in. Turns out that the walk in isn't too bad, mostly on the road, we reached the top of Ampitheatre Buttress just after midday and little to say i was very intimidated. But the routes looked brilliant, it suggests in the guide to abseil down so we did so instead of taking the loose gully of death!

As we reached the bottom of the climb my feelings turned from nervousness to pure focus on the route! The route in question was Mur y Niwl/ Pinnacle Wall, a route i have wanted to do for a long time now.

WOW was it worth the wait, the first four pitches were all amazing and so different in many ways, i managed to lead a 14m pitch with one piece of gear, which was a number 1 nut ;) . Roger got the second pitch but i have got to say each of them deserve 3 stars!!

Pinnacle wall had some bizzarre climbing and Kirkus deserve some man points for getting the first ascent as a solo!!!!!

What a beast! Time now to focus on the Cornish Granite next weekend!