I've often posted on here complaining of a tweaky finger or a pulley injury but I thought I will combat this issue by training them in an isolated controlled way, fingerboard. Spoke to a few different wads about what is the best way to go about training fingers considering I've never done it before and came up with a decent plan to do two sessions a week on max hang. This consisted of:
3 x 8 sec straight arm 30 degree sloper (1.10 min rest between each)
3 x 8 sec 90 lock 30 degree sloper (1.10 min rest between each)
3 x 8 sec full lock 30 degree sloper (1.10 min rest between each)
2.30 rest
3 x 8 sec straight arm crimp on small edge (1.10 min rest between each)
3 x 8 sec 90 lock crimp on small edge (1.10 min rest between each)
3 x 8 sec full lock crimp on small edge (1.10 min rest between each)
2.30 rest
3 x 8 sec straight arm front three drag medium edge (1.10 min rest between each)
3 x 8 sec 90 lock front three drag medium edge (1.10 min rest between each)
3 x 8 sec full lock front three drag medium edge (1.10 min rest between each)
3 min rest
10 x 90 degree locks of 5 sec (assisted) alternate arms 30 sec rest between each
Great combination, short in time so can be done before a session. Training was going really well, managed to enter the Hangar comp and come in a reasonable position.
People I know in the past have had a bad lower back and sometimes if training core I have had the odd ache every now and again but nothing major. Until Sunday! I was out mountain biking with Reynolds and Lunt and about 3 km into the ride I jumped back onto my bike and felt a sharp pain in my lower back. Thinking it was just a trapped nerve I carried on with the ride, another 30 km later back at the van I'm in agony! Can barely stand up straight, and I'm supposed to be on a MTB leader assessment the next day! After the journey home it just gets worse and Helen makes me go the walk in centre, the place I hate the most full of disease and generally strange people. So after waiting to see a nurse who confirms it is a pulled muscle I return home to ice it and rest it, deciding not to go on the assessment.
I remember laughing at Richy Crouch doing his back at Warton a few years ago and his tales of dragging pads back to his van and then being bed bound for a few days, well Karma came back and booted me in the nuts! With this knowledge though I knew he would be best person to contact, he gave me a load of good advice and put me onto Joe Le Sage's blog where he talks specifically about lower back injuries and exercises to strengthen them. I'm also seeking the advice of the Grand Master Donnelly tonight who hopefully will shed some light onto the dark feelings I have at this moment in time.
The hope I do have is that today after a full day of rest I do feel considerably better and there is less pain so fingers crossed I can get back to some light exercises as soon as possible.
That 7C goal still eludes me!!
For any advice on shoulder injuries or back injuries check out
Joe's blog it's a really good read and it comes from a climbers point of view.
