Margalef success

The time came around pretty quickly to make my way to Margalef. Was I fully ready? This is a tough question as i picked up a slight niggle whilst in Font, Managed to be pretty disciplined and chill for the rest of Font then get some milage done indoors the week before we left.

Arriving at the airport on saturday the psyche was pretty high, looking forward to some dry days, drinking beer and wine, and some warmer weather. Well, so far we have had two of the three, it's FREEZING!! So the climbing has been hard lots of pockets, i was expecting these but somehow i was expecting it not to be as harsh as it is. But not having ever climbed on pockets or trained for them then the body will take some time to adapt.

Before this post gets too dark lets talk about the joy;

The aims for the trip were to climb a good few routes in the sevens and possibly work a 7c. Looking at the 7c's I think I might just stick to getting plenty of lower 7's done and then hopefully try flash or on-sight one.

Yesterday conditions were cold very cold. Warming up was hard to do as by the time you got to third bolt your fingers where totally numb and then the hot aches kicked in. I thought instead of wasting energy on the easier routes it would be good to just jump on a 7a and warm up on that. Five clips then a good hands off rest at a ledge i thought this would be prime as there would be plenty of time to recover and get some feeling back into the fingers. Managing to get just underneath the ledge my weakness kicked in...... a mantle shelf! Hanging around for too long I got pumped and cold and failed so thought I would work the moves then get it quickly on the redpoint, finding a sequence that worked for me and still quite a committing move I was at the hands off rest. The top section of the route looked amazing lots of pockets, well placed clips and just steep enough so you knew you couldn't relax and hang around too long. From the rest at the ledge i managed to get the top section in  one, but as the warm up was hard i was boxed! Felt so tired, having a nice long rest and watching John try Tony Kaneloni which looks so good, proper long with quite a few burly moves. Hopefully he will send it soon after working the sequence and the temps rise, fingers crossed ey!

So back down to Franja De Ponent (7a) somebody was on it so this meant I had to wait which wasn't all bad as I could watch their sequence and make sure it was clear in my head. Times up and it's my go, first section went really smoothly and I got to the ledge again, but into a panic I went, for the life of me i could not remember the sequence to get onto the ledge. After falling I felt I best get this sequence nailed as this was the only thing letting me down on the redpoint. Two hands on the ledge, right hand up to a gaston jug, left foot up high on an edge, left hand up to a flat hold and pull, you are on the ledge. Easy! I was about the carry on to the top when Dave shouts up why don't you come down have 20 mins then jump back on, good plan as any energy used to get to the top would have been a waste as the top section was on lock down.

After a rest and watching Ian work the moves back onto the rope I tie, boots tied up tight, jumper off, chalk up the hands, take a deep breath and away I go. First section big hand ledge, high left foot and roll over into a 2 finger pocket for the right hand, lock this down and reach a big left handed hold, breath. Make the clip and a series of pocket moves until just below the resting ledge, hands on the ledge and it's done, before i know it I am on the resting ledge breathing and shaking out. Then after a good rest a deep breath i carry on sequence dialled I am at the top before I know it! 

SUCCESS Wahoo!!

Big Malc Smith on an 8a!

Quick update

Last update 19th October! Damn its been too long.
I keep going to write posts then realise that there isn't any pictures and it's all just words.
But whats been going on?
Well I now finally own my own T5 which i am in the process of converting the back out to make it comfortable to sleep in. So a lot of time and money is going into that as a full time project.
Climbing wise well the weather has been dump so not been outdoors in the UK for a while just training a little indoors trying to stay fit and not eat or drink too much.
Font was a bit of an unsucsessful trip with the whole forest being sat in a cloud for the majority of the week a lot of my time was spent drinking. Still managing two 7a's it wasnt a total waste of time just more frustration as i tweaked a finger on a problem.
Focus now is on Spain for a sport climbing holiday, away for christmas? Some people think i am mad but really what do we do on christmas?? Eat too much? Drink too much? See family we see all the time? Exactly so why not have a change.
The psyche levels are high and i have been watching quite a few video two of which stick out in my mind. One got my psyche levels off the scale and made me want to live in Scotland. The other made me want to be able to crush hard trad! Both are embedded below so have a watch.
Just a short one with the promise of more regular posts with plenty of photos of both the van and a full round up of Font.


Scottish Icetrip in Ben Nevis - English by Petzl-crew

Lakes, Lakes, Lakes....

I had never done much climbing in the Lake District up until lately. Last weekend I went on a bit of a social visit so didn't think i would get much climbing done but managed to get out both days and get some ticking done.
Saturday 24th:
The morning was taken up by visiting my cousin Craig and his wife Liz, the plan was to go to the school where he works and to help him on a few things with his new climbing wall.
After spending four hours solid climbing, grading and setting some new routes for him the rain had finally stopped so we headed over to Borrowdale to Shepherds Crag. Only thing i had ever done here before was Little Chamonix the VD multi-pitch. Things were still pretty damp but we got on with it and got some ticking done. Craig lead C.M.D (VS 4c) which is a pleasent steep crack. then I lead Chamonix (HS 4b) which has quite a committing little move in it. Then decided i wanted something a little bit harder so opted for Kransit Crack Direct (HVS 5a) setting off and realising it's a crack that requires jamming...... but i didn't jam so it was all good ;)
Sunday 25th:
Craig wasn't climbing today so i had planned to meet up with Roger and Kris who were in the Langdale valley, i set off but the weather wasn't looking too promising so i was a little bit pesimistic about the day. Turned out to be a brilliant day, heading up to Raven Crag, although asking Roger what he wanted to do sounded like he had pretty much ticked everything on the crag up to E1. So i got on the classic Revelation (HS) which was brilliant, the climb is supposed to be multipitch but it is possible to link it into one big pitch. Moved across then on to East Raven as it was getting busy! Turned out everyone had the same idea as us. This is a fairly small single pitch crag with some really nice climbing on compact solid rock, Roger got on Jingo (VS 4b) and Baskerville (VS 4c) and lived up to his name by Crusing them. Kris lead Mamba (S 4b) which had some realy nice moves on it and i finished the day by doing The Chopper (HVS 5a) the climbing felt pretty steady to me and the gear was all bomber, but a slightly run out section in the middle kept me on my toes. I came home to later find out that the majority of people find this hard for HVS and hard for 5a! So i was psyched.
Good weekend ticking 8 routes in two days and also being sociable with my cousin.

Thursday 29th:
Just an easy day, with the the weather forecast being so good for so late in the year it would have been rude not to make another trip up to the lakes to try to get one last shot in at some mountain routes. We left Liverpool pretty late in the day but still managed to get some climbing in after setting up our tent at the National Trust site. We wanted somewhere close with a good selection of easy routes so that Helen could get into the swing of things an ideal choice was Raven Crag Walthwaite, i had heard good reviews about this crag with the walk in being short and the single pithc routes being of superb quality with solid rock and addequit gear. This description was spot on, i thought i would give Helen the first lead and throw her in at the deep end on Enterprize VS 4c, i knew that this was a little bit soft for the grade but would be good to build her confidence and as i presumed she cruised up it in a smooth style. Followed then by seconding me up Tritus a nice steep HVS, to then lead a small HS multi pitch Route 2, this was good practice as we had plans to head up to Gimmer and with her not doing much multi pitch before she could do with practicing setting up belays and getting slick on the rope work. The day was finished off by a nice E1 called Swing to the Right and a pint in Wainwrights.

Friday 30th:
The weather was still fantastic, because the campsite is in a valley and the time of the year it was there was a lot of dew on the floor in the morning but with clear blue skies and the sun rising we knew we were in for a beautiful day. The plan today was to head over to a multipitch crag called Wallowbarrow, from reading the guidebook and the recomendation of others it was clear there were some superb multipitch routes here ranging from VD up to HVS. Arriving at the base of the crag i thought i would give Helen the choice of the route, as i suspected she picked a nice 3 pithc Severe called Thomas, after leading the first pitch she arrived at what was the belay to find that the tree described in the guidebook was no longer there! To which she felt slightly uneasy and then realised she had to make do, this is a perfect example of taking what the guidebook says with 'a pinch of salt'. All three pitches were fantastic climbing, nice and easy but a brilliant route. Next on the list after some water and a bite to eat was Digitation this HS started off with a 40m pitch up a solid looking slab, in the guidebook it says it has a tricky overlap and this time the guidebook was right, having minimal feet but a slopey ledge for my hands a found myself mid mantleshelf thinking "hmm this is certainly interesting for the grade?" as i thought Helen managed to find a foot hold and do it a lot smoother than me. Well that must be the boulderer within! I wanted to finish the day off with something a little harder and two nice guys there recommended a VS called Malediction Direct, with a scramble for the first pitch at the belay it splits off and goes into three different routes, and i definatley think we had been pointed to the best of them! With some fantastic positions and bomber gear the steep climbing had me in my element and made a pleasant finish to the day.

Saturday 1st:
This was the big one! Although i had doubts that it was going to happen after waking in the night to hear that all too often sound of rain on the top of the tent. When we woke in the morning the rain had stopped but the valley was sat in some low lying cloud, with the forecast not as clear there was a little uncertainty within me. But i was being optimistic so suggested we go for it and if its wet we would at least get a nice day out walking. Turns out the optimism paid off after a brutal one hours slog up hill we finally reached a relatively flat piece of hillside from where you can see the outstanding barrel shaped face of Gimmer Crag. Having never been here before i knew any route i did would be a good one, but i always have the slight bit of selfishness if i am walking that far i really want to do another route that will count towards my MIA training. Arriving at the base of the South East face we were greeted by two old guys who have spent more time in the mountains than Rich has hanging out in the cave ;) only for them to say "good afternoon (it was still monring though) what time do you call this?" you have got to love the sense of humor of the climbing community.
We headed round to what we thought would be relatively straight forward to get to which was Ash Tree Ledge only to realise it was a pretty exposed scramble to get to it, still with our packs on our backs i think this managed to push Helen out of her comfort zone and freak her out slightly, upon reaching the ledge we met another party just about to set off up Springbank the E2, i asked Helen how she felt and not suprisingly she was pretty nervous, after looking at the first pitch of Kipling Groove she decided she didn't really want to lead it. This left me in a dilemma "do i lead both pitches" or "do a different route"?? I was so psyched to do Kipling Groove because it had been on my list for ages i decided i would lead both pitches and we would swap over on the first belay. This turned out to be the best decision i managed to get two fanastic pitches both with absolutley bomber gear and a pretty sustained 5a second pitch. I felt really good as i didn't feel uneasy at any point on the climb and it felt like i was going really well. Helen seconded up it and came over the top with a huge grin on her face. After abseiling back down it was only 3 o'clock so another route was needed after that walk in, again the lead was down to me so i chose North West Arete a 3 star VS 4b, 42m of solid climbing on really nice holds some super moves with enought exposure to make you keep concentrating, this route was a brilliant finish to the few days. And who would of thought climbing on Gimmer in October in a t-shirt!!!!
Back to the Old Dungeon Ghyll for a well earned pint!

Picture by Gordon Stainforth UKC

Lazy but also busy

I get so lazy filling this thing in sometimes. I think of something brilliant to write but then when it comes to it i can never be arsed.
To sum things up though i've been climbing loads, found my psyche with a week long trip to Font booked for November and 10 days sport climbing in Spain in December i need to get strong and fit.
Spent four days in the Lakes at the bank holiday and had various other days out sport climbing and trad climbing i feel like i can move on rock again and i'm getting that confidence back to go past bolts or gear.
Anyways i promise i will update more regularly from now on, with more pictures less words and more psyche!!
To keep you occupied for now though check out this short video i made from Parisella's Cave:

Multi-pitch experience

So today was my first day off since last Thursday. Been working my arse off, but it will all be worth it when i get a van!!

After last Thursday being a wash out and only managing an indoor session i really keen to get out and get on some real rock. I had arranged with Helen to take her over to North Wales to go do some multi-pitch as she had never done any before.

I took a while thinking of a venue because i thought it would be a good challenge for me to pick correct routes for somebody to gain the confidence in climbing multi-pitch.

I remember a while ago i heard a friend telling me about Crackstone Rib on Carreg Wastad being a straight forward climb but with a really exposed feeling, so I thought this would be a good opportunity to see if Helen's head was in it.

Wow what a classic climb, the climbing was fantastic, good holds all the way up and really good gear. I lead the first pitch to show Helen how to set up a belay, although having done her SPA she lacked a little bit of confidence so i thought this was the correct thing to do. Good choice as she picked it up fine and could get a lead on the second pitch.

Next up on the list was Skylon a HS but it looked nice and clean and fairly straight forward. She had a little bit of a leg wobble midway up the pitch but managed to keep it together to crush the route. I was made up for her and was a brilliant climb to second up as well.

As we topped out we felt some speckles of rain and then the heavens opened on us.

This only meant one thing....Coffee time as V12 in Llanberis :)

I was slightly gutted as i was really keen to get on Over Lapping wall... Ahh well next time ey!!

Just to ruin the day though we got back to Helen's to discover a parking ticket on my car for parking in the visitor car park :s yeah i was really confused but turns out you have to get a visitors pass.. But none of them knew.

Well I'm pretty sure i won't be paying that after Helen has finished with them on the phone!!

Time for something new

So days are passing by and i feel stuck in a rut, i've heard plenty of people say "life's to short!"
What next i keep asking myself, I am enjoying work at the wall but the simple fact is i don't want to be here for the rest of my life! Looking at what other people have done since finishing university makes me think why aren't i off doing that? There is people in Canada, Fiji, Nepal... people have been working the UAE. And here is me still in Liverpool.
Before this gets on to a rant i'm going to stop myself and get to the point of the post.
The job i was hoping to apply for at Plas y Brenin came up on their vacancies the other day and i read through it and decided that i haven't got the relevant experience at this time, so i called up a few friends who are in similar positions but with a bit more experience and they suggested applying for the Nightwatch scheme at Glenmore Lodge, so i looked into this and it sounds perfect.
I mean being based in Scotland for a full year (a full winter) i got super psyched and downloaded the application form and started to fill it out, turns out when i think about it i've got quite a lot of climbing under my belt. Pretty varied as well from bouldering font 7b+ to leading winter grade V. One vital thing i think is missing from my CV is my D1 so i got on to sorting it all out.. more complex than i thought it would be have to apply for a provisional, and get a medical from the GP at £80!! Well i know it will be worth it when i get it as it is like another NGB award in itself.
I feel I am actually making a concious effort now to move on and get the experience i require, also my finger is feeling better so gently started to train on it again indoors over the past week and it feels good, now to get fit for Fontainbleau in November!!
Even feeling slightly down i realised it wasn't just me who was feeling like this after reading Owens blog (Raw Edge Days) i realised the psyche level in Liverpool is pretty low. Lets hope the weather picks up and people get more motivated!!

Mountain pleasure!

So still nursing that dodgy finger! What a pain, all training indoors has been put on hold just been keeping up with the running anf cycling to work (averaging 16mph over 8 miles, not bad ey?).

Well got a day off on Tuesday and so did Roger, so we planned to head over to Wales, to Ogwen to be precise!

Last time we planned to go out we ended up on Catell Helen and freezing then bailing early to the cafe for a coffee.

This time we were lucky with the weather, hoping to climb at Craig Yr Ysfa the sun was shining and the wind wasn't too strong, we went for it and go on with the 1.5hr walk in. Turns out that the walk in isn't too bad, mostly on the road, we reached the top of Ampitheatre Buttress just after midday and little to say i was very intimidated. But the routes looked brilliant, it suggests in the guide to abseil down so we did so instead of taking the loose gully of death!

As we reached the bottom of the climb my feelings turned from nervousness to pure focus on the route! The route in question was Mur y Niwl/ Pinnacle Wall, a route i have wanted to do for a long time now.

WOW was it worth the wait, the first four pitches were all amazing and so different in many ways, i managed to lead a 14m pitch with one piece of gear, which was a number 1 nut ;) . Roger got the second pitch but i have got to say each of them deserve 3 stars!!

Pinnacle wall had some bizzarre climbing and Kirkus deserve some man points for getting the first ascent as a solo!!!!!

What a beast! Time now to focus on the Cornish Granite next weekend!

All the Seven's!

Wow mega psyche at the moment!

Last week proved to be a great two days of sport climbing, although carrying a pulley injury!

So i headed to Kilnsey with Pete and Dave, keen to get on Nerve Ending the 7b but not expecting to see great results, turns out i managed all the moves and just powered out on the jugs at the top, haha. Who says fitness is over rated ;)

Second day on and a different venue, this time with Mike Psyche to Dinbren, i knew these routes suited my style and serious lack of fitness. I went with one goal in mind and that was to do the classic Technicolour Yawn 7a+ this would be my first of this grade.

So we warmed up and then i went and put the clips in and worked the moves, found the bottom section quite hard but then the middle section had an on/off barn door move. After carrying on to the top i decided to practice the move in the middle.

Happy i had done all the moves i came down and had a rest and belayed Mike on Diaperspace 7c. It looks like a brilliant route a hard bouldery start followed by some technical thin climbing. Goes without saying that he walked up it on his first redpoint of the day! I was mega psyched for him as this was his goal for the day.

After the rest i got back on Technicolour Yawn, i was going to top rope it to get the moves but just thought naa will go straight for the lead.... and i got it first red point!!

That being my first 7a+ i was suprised with how easy it felt.

We planned to get out and crush again today checked the forecast and it was on for a good day!

With plans to head back to Yorkshire, last minute change of plan and we were heading back to the Orme.

I had plans and goals last time we went i had a quick play on Julio Juvenito 7a got the moves but was just too tired to get it in one.

Warming up on Contusion 6c i felt good managing to retro flash it. So straight on to Julio, messing up my feet in the mid-section bulge i came off, sorted the move, came down and rested for a while. In the mean time Mike tried to onsight Mayfair 7a+ and just came unstuck near the top, getting it next go however. I jumped back on Julio and crushed it next go. Super pleased to get my first 7a on the Orme and only my second in the UK.

With the mood feeling good i thought i would give The Bloods 7a+ a go. This went pretty swiftly as well, had a top rope on it to get the moves, got it clean. Gets on it for the lead and came off because my feet popped! Argh..

Knowing i didn't have much energy left i knew i needed to get it next go, and i did!!

YES!! Mega psyche another 7a+ in a session.

Need to pull my finger out and get up a 7b ;)

Been to long

Shit! didn't realise how long it has been since i posted on here!

Anyways best get back on it but a quick update:

Swizzy was sick (3 x 7a's, 1 x 7a+, 2 x 7b)

Been tradding it up a fair bit and still really enjoying it

Psyched for sport again!!

Finger is injured again :(

Swizzy Video is coming along nicely

Peace x

Back in the Game!!

So the weekend was approaching and the weather was looking good. I was psyched for some North Wales trad action with Heather. With the clocks going forward and both of us partying on Saturday night i knew Sunday wasn't going to be a good day!

But it didn't turn out too badly, we headed up to Clogwyn Y Grochan and i had SS Special in mind anyways after loosing my psyche BIG time we ended up just puntering round up some easy classics that i had never done; Phantom Rib VS 4c and Nea VS 4b. Both of which were amazing climbing especially Phantom Rib. After realising that both of us were terrible at making descisions we finally decided to head to the slate for some more classics!

Not being super psyched to walk we just went to Bus Stop Quarry, and Heather did Gnat Attack E1 5b my head wasnt feeling up to leading it so i blew the flash and just top roped it, kind of wish i lead it now but ah well. After that i felt a bit more confident and decided to go for the lead on Solstice HVS 5a WOW what a class route, it just flowed really nicelt with gear exactly where you needed it.

So after a successful day of not falling off i felt i had some more confidence and would like to up it a bit more on the Monday. We decided we were going to go Tremadog and get some 'E' points.

I had a few routes in mind but didn't say anything to Heather as we get there she suggested Meshach HVS 5a which was one of the routes i wanted to do. This was good as she let me lead the 5a pitch, some technical climbing on smallish holds but good moves and the hard move is protected nicely by a peg. After topping out we chilled in the sunshine at the top for a while. Abseiled down and had some lunch, Heather then wanted to do Leg Slip which i also had eyed up in the guide that morning! So we got on that she wanted to lead the 5b pitch which i was fine with, but this meant i got an awkward corner/groove/tree 5a pitch, very wierd climbing!! But the second pitch was phenomenal, really wierd climbing well protected but felt exposed.

We had time for one last route and i had eyed up Grim Wall Direct when we abseiled down from Meshach so i got on it, didn't even think about falling, my head totally in the zone, and this was good because i cruised it! Felt really confident on it, steady, calm and composed all the way up it.

So this wrapped up a good two days climbing and i feel i have got alot more confidence now than when we went, psyched for a summer of trad and long routes, pushing the grade slightly to nail that E4!!!

On the way home we called into Plas-y-Brenin to see Katy, this was good because we got some well nice food and had some good banter with the guys there.

This in turn motivated me even more to go get more routes done and get my MIA training nailed!!!!

Falling! Falling! Falling!

So for years now i have always been afraid of falling, even indoors i found it hard to pluck up the courage and take a fall. I would always either grab the clip, grab a jug or down climb! I just couldn't get my head around falling off.

A couple of months ago having read Dave Macleods '9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes' i realised how much of a problem this was, but since reading the book i did very little route climbing as it was bouldering season.

So the issue of falling just fell to the back of my mind. Right up until a couple of weeks ago when i took my first trad fall! Started of having a good day down at Holyhead Mountain got my first trad route of the year boxed off managing Bruvers (HVS 5a) and an excellent route, moves round and i thought why not give the classic King Bee Crack a try, from the ground there only looked to be one tricky little section. So as i goes on with the lead i gets to about a meter above my gear when 'pop' my foot comes off and i was in space! My cam held and i was ok, Heather lowered me down i had a breather and got back on the route and finished it off.

As you can imagine i was gripped and boxed out of my mind at the top of the climb and just releaved to have finished it!

Next trip out climbing we headed up to Scotland for what would be my last winter routes of the year. Heading into Coire An T'Sneachda and my trad fall was not even on my mind i was psyched to be getting back out in and getting more winter stuff done!

Turns out that the fall a few weeks before wasn't going to be my last this year, as half way up my lead on Fluted Buttress Direct my axe popped and i was off again! This time falling onto a hex and having quite an awkward fall trashing both my shins and my left knee, although the cuts and bruises only superficial i think this fall shook me up more than the last as i landed hanging upside down!! George i think was just as shook up as me, luckily i managed to keep my axes and crampons away from my body so was ok to carry on with the route. Again getting back on and finishing it off!

The walk back down from the top was a fairly quiet one, i think mainly the two of us just reflecting on the fall. When down and in the cafe Kris said i looked 'wired' and Roger said im due for my pilots lisence soon! Ha.

That night checking the forecast things didn't look good for the Sunday and i was thinking i was going to finish this winter season on a fall! Start trad season on a fall finish winter on a fall!! Not good.

But luckily for me it wasn't and we managed to get back out and do Red Gully back in Coire An t'Sneachda and i got on a lead another pitch which put my mind at ease.

Looking back at the two falls i cant quite think how they have affected me. Hopefully as Rich said i will only improve as i should now not be afraid of falling and i think he is right because it has put my mind at ease that the two pieces of kit i trusted least have both just saved my life. Back out again this weekend over to Wales for two days with Heather so hopefully no more falling but plenty more crushing!

Winter Wonderland

So we headed upto Scotland for a week last week, the weather forecast wasn't great but i knew we would at least get something done.

On the way up we thought we would stop and get a nice walk in, the weather wasn't great but nevertheless it was a really good day out, good start to what would turn out to be a belter of a week.

As the week unfolded the avalanche forecast was getting worse with most Northern aspect slopes on a Cat 4 avalanche risk. Another couple of days walking, with a quick route in on the East Ridge of Beinn a'Chaorainn although its only a grade II we still roped up just for the practice.

Coiling the rope on the top of a perfect Meggy

Thursday came and the forecast was set out to be a stunner. So we thought we would make the most out of the day by heading upto Creag Meagaidh, wow what a trek in 2 hour walk in for one climb, thats a new record for me.

We checked out the guidebook the eveing before and all had a few routes in mind, but one we all fancied was The Pumpkin grade V, 4 but a **** so as far as classics go this was a good one!

Walking upto the base of the climb i had a few butterflies, got a slight bit of nerves just before.

But when i started climbing the butterlfies went and the climbing was definately the best i have ever experienced, it was amazing. The weather was perfect, at one point i was even belaying without gloves on!!!

First ever grade V and i can definately say i have caught the Scotland and winter bug now, so psyched to get on some more routes and head back up for another trip, already been planning for a weekend away soon.

Me on the second pitch of Pumpkin

One step closer!

So i kept Saturday free as i was going to a sports mans dinner on the Friday evening so thought i would end up getting drunk and Saturday would be a right off.

Wrong! I was disciplined only had a few pints and listened to the amazing speech off Dennis Taylor, who is, as i always thought a true athlete.

The plan was to head up to Trowbarrow, South Lakes, as of all the venues the shelter stone was the most likely to be dry. Driving up and the weather wasn't looking great, freezing fog pretty much all the way up there. But when we got there like magic the fog had gone but the ground was still frozen.

Conditions were pretty good and after warming up on the Red wall and getting shut down by Nicks Wall (6c) we headed over to the Shelter Stone. I was psyched to get Funk Phenomena done as i had a session on it in the summer and came pretty close and now i am feeling much stronger. But that changed when the top out was dripping wet.

Next on the list Pit Problem; i gave it a good go just from the stand start that still gets 7b+ but just couldn't latch that edge. Tried Vitruvian Man at the end of the day, but the weather was so cold that you couldn't rest properly and i just had to try, fall off, try again, fall off, try again..... until i was beaten into submission!

Leaving with no new ticks i felt disheartened so was psyched to get back for another session there as soon as possible.

Which luckily for me turned out to be Monday, we drove back up this time conditions were looking even more perfect, and we were joined by a new face Ged Mc from The Climbing Hangar. Always good to get out with new people they bring a fresh sense of enthusiasm to the venue.

Warms up on the Red Wall again, this time managed to do Nicks Wall (6c) longest siege of a 6c I've ever had, and its not even a hard one!!

Felt good, moved around onto the Shelter Stone and we were actually climbing in t-shirts, the sun was out it was a glorious day.

After a few tries i managed to the latch the edge and my heel-toe stuck! That was it, i knew i was going to do the problem as soon as it stuck, so the left heel goes on and i locked out to the lip, matched the lip, got my feet around and rocked out!

I was so happy, second 7b+ and it didn't even take that long.

Got a good feeling that this year is going to be the year i climb 7c!!

Will try and get some photos up soon but having trouble with the car reader ive got.

Grit Success

Yesterday was the first day ive managed to have out this year on real rock.

Either ive been working too much or the weather hasn't been upto much or ive been focussing on winter stuff, but whatever the problem was i had a great day and i am actually psyched to climb on some grit for a change.

So we headed out to Stanage Plantation this was a first as i had never been so was quite looking forward to it.

Starts off with a warm up on Pebble Arete, although the problem is only 5+ definately a technical one and certainly felt pretty high. Didnt manage to flash it but managed it after a few goes, all about the foot placements and balance, turns out this technique is harder than i thought.

Following the theme of classic problems is pretty much how the day went, we then moved down to Cresent Arete which i was psyched to flash, only for my hands to grease off near the top! Damn that was a scary fall, but got it next go.

Not to be taken away had been on my ticklist for a while now, but could i fuck manage it! just couldnt get that first move, then by the time i did i had wasted SO much skin.

Anyways went to watch Sean an Mike try Brad Pit, this was a comical scene as Sean rocked up really confident then just couldnt manage to find the body position for the first move, he kept trying and trying, changing through nearly all 5 pairs of shoes that he had with him. But all to no avail he just couldn't get that move.

Back down so Rich could try Capatain Hook, what a class looking problem, tension under a roof, lots of heels, looked like being back in the cave!!

Temps dropped but with the drop came the damp so he just couldnt hold the sloper on the lip.

Although we slagged off Green Traverse at the start of the day we thought we would kill the last of our energy on it.

Super choice for me as i managed it after a few goes, bagging my first gritstone 7a, definately pleased with that tick.

To finish off the whole day went back for another try of Deliverence, managed to get the slabby start dialed within a few tries now its just getting my body sorted for the jump, wasn't doing too badly as at the end i was only about an inch off the top.

Going to try and get back and get it done soon!

The Hangar

Jesus this place is going to create some proper beasts!

Went down to the opening of the new wall in Liverpool the Climbing Hangar on saturday.

Wow what a variety of problems, they have only managed to open phase one for the time being, but after spending 2 hours pottering round on plenty on different problems i was goosed!

Hoping to head back down tomorrow for a real lunchtime special £3.50!!!

Well i need to head down after hearing off Rich on sunday with the amazing news that we are goin to Cresciano and Chironico in April best pull my finger out and get into shape if i want to actually do well.

Hoping to finally go on a trip where i can be at full fitness and be peaking for the trip.

So plenty of swimming to shed the extra few pounds of christmas cheer ;) and plenty of sessions indoors bouldering and bot outdoors building up some more technique and decent skin.

New year and new injury already!

So 2010 has been and gone, Feels like it went so quickly but its been a pretty successful year both in terms of climbing and education. I managed to actually pass my degree and my ML, but now onto the things that actually matter "grades"!

"All i care about is glory, and you get no glory unless you get grades!"

So the biggest focus of the year was achieving the goals i set at the start 5 7a's and Clever Beaver.

Managed to dispatch these by May, ha! Surely i must be aiming to low so i upped the game and carried on trying more and more problems in different areas and on different rock types.

The year was full of trips, 2 to Font, a week in Kalymnos, 4 days down in Dartmoor, a weekend in Porth Ysgo and plenty of different UK venues for the odd day trip.

Also along with the plenty of trips of course came many injuries, mainly being finger injuries.

Well down to the business of what climbs and what grades i got done in total:

Boulder

7a

Right Wall Traverse

Right Wall Traverse - Lip Stick RH

Lipstick

Parisella's Original

Bizarre Bizarre

Pif Paf

King Of Drunks

Angel Deelite (flash)

Fire Starter

Pill Box Original

Lapin Au Canard

Blind Bat

7a +

Clever Cleaver Stand

Clever Beaver

Bust Lip

Fleur De Rhum

Pantys Down

Sanctified Strong

Nothing To Say Dyno

Last Stand

7b

Lip Service

7b+

Clever Cleaver - Clever Beaver Start

Route

7a

Hot Stuff

Calipso

Kastor

7a+

Aphrodite

E1

Gogarth

Managed to climb the hardest in every discipline in this year. Lets just hope 2011 can bring the same will have to do some serious training if i want this to happen.

Latest injury is a knee injury, not quite sure what i have done to it yet but i have spoken to Matt and he has given me a few things to research and i think it could possibly be Lateral Colateral Ligament issues and just a mild strain. Hoping it is as the new wall opens soon an im really keen to get there on a regular basis and fid my motivation to train again as i lost it working too much at the wall. At least a new wall will be a completly new atmosphere and somewhere i can truely chill out and focus on the climbing.