Tuesday 18 January 2011

Grit Success

Yesterday was the first day ive managed to have out this year on real rock.
Either ive been working too much or the weather hasn't been upto much or ive been focussing on winter stuff, but whatever the problem was i had a great day and i am actually psyched to climb on some grit for a change.
So we headed out to Stanage Plantation this was a first as i had never been so was quite looking forward to it.
Starts off with a warm up on Pebble Arete, although the problem is only 5+ definately a technical one and certainly felt pretty high. Didnt manage to flash it but managed it after a few goes, all about the foot placements and balance, turns out this technique is harder than i thought.
Following the theme of classic problems is pretty much how the day went, we then moved down to Cresent Arete which i was psyched to flash, only for my hands to grease off near the top! Damn that was a scary fall, but got it next go.
Not to be taken away had been on my ticklist for a while now, but could i fuck manage it! just couldnt get that first move, then by the time i did i had wasted SO much skin.
Anyways went to watch Sean an Mike try Brad Pit, this was a comical scene as Sean rocked up really confident then just couldnt manage to find the body position for the first move, he kept trying and trying, changing through nearly all 5 pairs of shoes that he had with him. But all to no avail he just couldn't get that move.
Back down so Rich could try Capatain Hook, what a class looking problem, tension under a roof, lots of heels, looked like being back in the cave!!
Temps dropped but with the drop came the damp so he just couldnt hold the sloper on the lip.
Although we slagged off Green Traverse at the start of the day we thought we would kill the last of our energy on it.
Super choice for me as i managed it after a few goes, bagging my first gritstone 7a, definately pleased with that tick.
To finish off the whole day went back for another try of Deliverence, managed to get the slabby start dialed within a few tries now its just getting my body sorted for the jump, wasn't doing too badly as at the end i was only about an inch off the top.
Going to try and get back and get it done soon!

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