Out of the dark.... Into the light.

Spain

So Spain turned out to be a bit of a flop. Managed five days, started working a nice roadside 7c. After getting a sequence nailed pretty quick i decided to give a red point but turned out i was too tired, but it definitely felt like it would go and quick. After deciding to put my eggs in one basket and chase the grade, the next day was spent on the same route after getting frustratingly close still no tick! Third day on and last day left in Margalef the pressure was on, i went down feeling quite tired but with just a quick warm up a brief rest then a red point i felt it would go.
Start wired, clipping the third clip i make the big move to a right hand two finger pocket, sort feet, lock it down to a shallow dish and up to the glued on flake where i could get a breather and get some back before the next section. Rest up i sort my feet for a powerful move out left to a good pocket, clip, right hand up to another two finger pocket, left to a good edge then up to a right flatty, clip done, quick shake not feeling too bad, left hand to a good pocket, right up to a three finger slot, the foot holds are polished and poor but just one hard move and it's in the bag! Left foot up high i lock the right hand and slap to the good jug... foot pops, body cuts loose then.... POP! A rush of blood to the palm of my hand FUCK I'VE RUINED MY WHOLE TRIP!!!
I was gutted, i knew i wouldn't be able to climb again on the trip. Well time to crack open the Cerveza.
This wasn't the case i managed to top rope some stuff and even lead a nice little 5+ at Monstant on my last day.
Having or getting an injury on a trip can be hard, how are you supposed to stay positive when putting in months of effort training and spent that much money to go somewhere where you can't even climb.
I was lucky enough to be around some pretty up beat people who managed to lighten the mood and ensure i didn't slip into a DARK PLACE.... hahaha.

me on a nice 7a at Margalef

Back Home

So home for new year and a bit of work, the finger is starting to feel much better even only 10 days after the injury. With climbing lots and being prone to injury i had done plenty of research previous so knew the stages of rehab, but fingers crossed it is going much quicker than i could have hoped for.

I was keen to carry on training around the injury so have been hitting the core, pull ups and theraband hard. 

Managed an indoor route session still climbing 6b+ with no niggles and the most important part is getting plenty of blood flow to the area and deep massage to prevent the build up of scar tissue. Even this weekend i still managed to get out both days and have a nice easy circuit on some gritstone.

Saturday was in search of a new crag for me, over to Wimberry; and what an aesthetic place just a shame the boulders where greener than Kermit the frog!! Still explored and found the boulders and will head back in the summer for an easy evening circuit.

Sunday was a bit more hopeful we headed to Burbage South Boulders knowing that if there was any wind and it didn't rain then it would be dry. There was some low lying cloud but we still managed a nice circuit mainly repeating problems but still managed to get some new ones and plenty of flashes to encourage the technique.

So all in all the rehab is going well, i'm keeping a positive outlook on things and this time i now know how to train the fingers to be able to pull harder and stay injury free. This year is going to be a good one!

Margalef success

The time came around pretty quickly to make my way to Margalef. Was I fully ready? This is a tough question as i picked up a slight niggle whilst in Font, Managed to be pretty disciplined and chill for the rest of Font then get some milage done indoors the week before we left.

Arriving at the airport on saturday the psyche was pretty high, looking forward to some dry days, drinking beer and wine, and some warmer weather. Well, so far we have had two of the three, it's FREEZING!! So the climbing has been hard lots of pockets, i was expecting these but somehow i was expecting it not to be as harsh as it is. But not having ever climbed on pockets or trained for them then the body will take some time to adapt.

Before this post gets too dark lets talk about the joy;

The aims for the trip were to climb a good few routes in the sevens and possibly work a 7c. Looking at the 7c's I think I might just stick to getting plenty of lower 7's done and then hopefully try flash or on-sight one.

Yesterday conditions were cold very cold. Warming up was hard to do as by the time you got to third bolt your fingers where totally numb and then the hot aches kicked in. I thought instead of wasting energy on the easier routes it would be good to just jump on a 7a and warm up on that. Five clips then a good hands off rest at a ledge i thought this would be prime as there would be plenty of time to recover and get some feeling back into the fingers. Managing to get just underneath the ledge my weakness kicked in...... a mantle shelf! Hanging around for too long I got pumped and cold and failed so thought I would work the moves then get it quickly on the redpoint, finding a sequence that worked for me and still quite a committing move I was at the hands off rest. The top section of the route looked amazing lots of pockets, well placed clips and just steep enough so you knew you couldn't relax and hang around too long. From the rest at the ledge i managed to get the top section in  one, but as the warm up was hard i was boxed! Felt so tired, having a nice long rest and watching John try Tony Kaneloni which looks so good, proper long with quite a few burly moves. Hopefully he will send it soon after working the sequence and the temps rise, fingers crossed ey!

So back down to Franja De Ponent (7a) somebody was on it so this meant I had to wait which wasn't all bad as I could watch their sequence and make sure it was clear in my head. Times up and it's my go, first section went really smoothly and I got to the ledge again, but into a panic I went, for the life of me i could not remember the sequence to get onto the ledge. After falling I felt I best get this sequence nailed as this was the only thing letting me down on the redpoint. Two hands on the ledge, right hand up to a gaston jug, left foot up high on an edge, left hand up to a flat hold and pull, you are on the ledge. Easy! I was about the carry on to the top when Dave shouts up why don't you come down have 20 mins then jump back on, good plan as any energy used to get to the top would have been a waste as the top section was on lock down.

After a rest and watching Ian work the moves back onto the rope I tie, boots tied up tight, jumper off, chalk up the hands, take a deep breath and away I go. First section big hand ledge, high left foot and roll over into a 2 finger pocket for the right hand, lock this down and reach a big left handed hold, breath. Make the clip and a series of pocket moves until just below the resting ledge, hands on the ledge and it's done, before i know it I am on the resting ledge breathing and shaking out. Then after a good rest a deep breath i carry on sequence dialled I am at the top before I know it! 

SUCCESS Wahoo!!

Big Malc Smith on an 8a!

Lazy but also busy

I get so lazy filling this thing in sometimes. I think of something brilliant to write but then when it comes to it i can never be arsed.
To sum things up though i've been climbing loads, found my psyche with a week long trip to Font booked for November and 10 days sport climbing in Spain in December i need to get strong and fit.
Spent four days in the Lakes at the bank holiday and had various other days out sport climbing and trad climbing i feel like i can move on rock again and i'm getting that confidence back to go past bolts or gear.
Anyways i promise i will update more regularly from now on, with more pictures less words and more psyche!!
To keep you occupied for now though check out this short video i made from Parisella's Cave: