Falling! Falling! Falling!

So for years now i have always been afraid of falling, even indoors i found it hard to pluck up the courage and take a fall. I would always either grab the clip, grab a jug or down climb! I just couldn't get my head around falling off.

A couple of months ago having read Dave Macleods '9 out of 10 climbers make the same mistakes' i realised how much of a problem this was, but since reading the book i did very little route climbing as it was bouldering season.

So the issue of falling just fell to the back of my mind. Right up until a couple of weeks ago when i took my first trad fall! Started of having a good day down at Holyhead Mountain got my first trad route of the year boxed off managing Bruvers (HVS 5a) and an excellent route, moves round and i thought why not give the classic King Bee Crack a try, from the ground there only looked to be one tricky little section. So as i goes on with the lead i gets to about a meter above my gear when 'pop' my foot comes off and i was in space! My cam held and i was ok, Heather lowered me down i had a breather and got back on the route and finished it off.

As you can imagine i was gripped and boxed out of my mind at the top of the climb and just releaved to have finished it!

Next trip out climbing we headed up to Scotland for what would be my last winter routes of the year. Heading into Coire An T'Sneachda and my trad fall was not even on my mind i was psyched to be getting back out in and getting more winter stuff done!

Turns out that the fall a few weeks before wasn't going to be my last this year, as half way up my lead on Fluted Buttress Direct my axe popped and i was off again! This time falling onto a hex and having quite an awkward fall trashing both my shins and my left knee, although the cuts and bruises only superficial i think this fall shook me up more than the last as i landed hanging upside down!! George i think was just as shook up as me, luckily i managed to keep my axes and crampons away from my body so was ok to carry on with the route. Again getting back on and finishing it off!

The walk back down from the top was a fairly quiet one, i think mainly the two of us just reflecting on the fall. When down and in the cafe Kris said i looked 'wired' and Roger said im due for my pilots lisence soon! Ha.

That night checking the forecast things didn't look good for the Sunday and i was thinking i was going to finish this winter season on a fall! Start trad season on a fall finish winter on a fall!! Not good.

But luckily for me it wasn't and we managed to get back out and do Red Gully back in Coire An t'Sneachda and i got on a lead another pitch which put my mind at ease.

Looking back at the two falls i cant quite think how they have affected me. Hopefully as Rich said i will only improve as i should now not be afraid of falling and i think he is right because it has put my mind at ease that the two pieces of kit i trusted least have both just saved my life. Back out again this weekend over to Wales for two days with Heather so hopefully no more falling but plenty more crushing!

Winter Wonderland

So we headed upto Scotland for a week last week, the weather forecast wasn't great but i knew we would at least get something done.

On the way up we thought we would stop and get a nice walk in, the weather wasn't great but nevertheless it was a really good day out, good start to what would turn out to be a belter of a week.

As the week unfolded the avalanche forecast was getting worse with most Northern aspect slopes on a Cat 4 avalanche risk. Another couple of days walking, with a quick route in on the East Ridge of Beinn a'Chaorainn although its only a grade II we still roped up just for the practice.

Coiling the rope on the top of a perfect Meggy

Thursday came and the forecast was set out to be a stunner. So we thought we would make the most out of the day by heading upto Creag Meagaidh, wow what a trek in 2 hour walk in for one climb, thats a new record for me.

We checked out the guidebook the eveing before and all had a few routes in mind, but one we all fancied was The Pumpkin grade V, 4 but a **** so as far as classics go this was a good one!

Walking upto the base of the climb i had a few butterflies, got a slight bit of nerves just before.

But when i started climbing the butterlfies went and the climbing was definately the best i have ever experienced, it was amazing. The weather was perfect, at one point i was even belaying without gloves on!!!

First ever grade V and i can definately say i have caught the Scotland and winter bug now, so psyched to get on some more routes and head back up for another trip, already been planning for a weekend away soon.

Me on the second pitch of Pumpkin

One step closer!

So i kept Saturday free as i was going to a sports mans dinner on the Friday evening so thought i would end up getting drunk and Saturday would be a right off.

Wrong! I was disciplined only had a few pints and listened to the amazing speech off Dennis Taylor, who is, as i always thought a true athlete.

The plan was to head up to Trowbarrow, South Lakes, as of all the venues the shelter stone was the most likely to be dry. Driving up and the weather wasn't looking great, freezing fog pretty much all the way up there. But when we got there like magic the fog had gone but the ground was still frozen.

Conditions were pretty good and after warming up on the Red wall and getting shut down by Nicks Wall (6c) we headed over to the Shelter Stone. I was psyched to get Funk Phenomena done as i had a session on it in the summer and came pretty close and now i am feeling much stronger. But that changed when the top out was dripping wet.

Next on the list Pit Problem; i gave it a good go just from the stand start that still gets 7b+ but just couldn't latch that edge. Tried Vitruvian Man at the end of the day, but the weather was so cold that you couldn't rest properly and i just had to try, fall off, try again, fall off, try again..... until i was beaten into submission!

Leaving with no new ticks i felt disheartened so was psyched to get back for another session there as soon as possible.

Which luckily for me turned out to be Monday, we drove back up this time conditions were looking even more perfect, and we were joined by a new face Ged Mc from The Climbing Hangar. Always good to get out with new people they bring a fresh sense of enthusiasm to the venue.

Warms up on the Red Wall again, this time managed to do Nicks Wall (6c) longest siege of a 6c I've ever had, and its not even a hard one!!

Felt good, moved around onto the Shelter Stone and we were actually climbing in t-shirts, the sun was out it was a glorious day.

After a few tries i managed to the latch the edge and my heel-toe stuck! That was it, i knew i was going to do the problem as soon as it stuck, so the left heel goes on and i locked out to the lip, matched the lip, got my feet around and rocked out!

I was so happy, second 7b+ and it didn't even take that long.

Got a good feeling that this year is going to be the year i climb 7c!!

Will try and get some photos up soon but having trouble with the car reader ive got.

Grit Success

Yesterday was the first day ive managed to have out this year on real rock.

Either ive been working too much or the weather hasn't been upto much or ive been focussing on winter stuff, but whatever the problem was i had a great day and i am actually psyched to climb on some grit for a change.

So we headed out to Stanage Plantation this was a first as i had never been so was quite looking forward to it.

Starts off with a warm up on Pebble Arete, although the problem is only 5+ definately a technical one and certainly felt pretty high. Didnt manage to flash it but managed it after a few goes, all about the foot placements and balance, turns out this technique is harder than i thought.

Following the theme of classic problems is pretty much how the day went, we then moved down to Cresent Arete which i was psyched to flash, only for my hands to grease off near the top! Damn that was a scary fall, but got it next go.

Not to be taken away had been on my ticklist for a while now, but could i fuck manage it! just couldnt get that first move, then by the time i did i had wasted SO much skin.

Anyways went to watch Sean an Mike try Brad Pit, this was a comical scene as Sean rocked up really confident then just couldnt manage to find the body position for the first move, he kept trying and trying, changing through nearly all 5 pairs of shoes that he had with him. But all to no avail he just couldn't get that move.

Back down so Rich could try Capatain Hook, what a class looking problem, tension under a roof, lots of heels, looked like being back in the cave!!

Temps dropped but with the drop came the damp so he just couldnt hold the sloper on the lip.

Although we slagged off Green Traverse at the start of the day we thought we would kill the last of our energy on it.

Super choice for me as i managed it after a few goes, bagging my first gritstone 7a, definately pleased with that tick.

To finish off the whole day went back for another try of Deliverence, managed to get the slabby start dialed within a few tries now its just getting my body sorted for the jump, wasn't doing too badly as at the end i was only about an inch off the top.

Going to try and get back and get it done soon!

The Hangar

Jesus this place is going to create some proper beasts!

Went down to the opening of the new wall in Liverpool the Climbing Hangar on saturday.

Wow what a variety of problems, they have only managed to open phase one for the time being, but after spending 2 hours pottering round on plenty on different problems i was goosed!

Hoping to head back down tomorrow for a real lunchtime special £3.50!!!

Well i need to head down after hearing off Rich on sunday with the amazing news that we are goin to Cresciano and Chironico in April best pull my finger out and get into shape if i want to actually do well.

Hoping to finally go on a trip where i can be at full fitness and be peaking for the trip.

So plenty of swimming to shed the extra few pounds of christmas cheer ;) and plenty of sessions indoors bouldering and bot outdoors building up some more technique and decent skin.

New year and new injury already!

So 2010 has been and gone, Feels like it went so quickly but its been a pretty successful year both in terms of climbing and education. I managed to actually pass my degree and my ML, but now onto the things that actually matter "grades"!

"All i care about is glory, and you get no glory unless you get grades!"

So the biggest focus of the year was achieving the goals i set at the start 5 7a's and Clever Beaver.

Managed to dispatch these by May, ha! Surely i must be aiming to low so i upped the game and carried on trying more and more problems in different areas and on different rock types.

The year was full of trips, 2 to Font, a week in Kalymnos, 4 days down in Dartmoor, a weekend in Porth Ysgo and plenty of different UK venues for the odd day trip.

Also along with the plenty of trips of course came many injuries, mainly being finger injuries.

Well down to the business of what climbs and what grades i got done in total:

Boulder

7a

Right Wall Traverse

Right Wall Traverse - Lip Stick RH

Lipstick

Parisella's Original

Bizarre Bizarre

Pif Paf

King Of Drunks

Angel Deelite (flash)

Fire Starter

Pill Box Original

Lapin Au Canard

Blind Bat

7a +

Clever Cleaver Stand

Clever Beaver

Bust Lip

Fleur De Rhum

Pantys Down

Sanctified Strong

Nothing To Say Dyno

Last Stand

7b

Lip Service

7b+

Clever Cleaver - Clever Beaver Start

Route

7a

Hot Stuff

Calipso

Kastor

7a+

Aphrodite

E1

Gogarth

Managed to climb the hardest in every discipline in this year. Lets just hope 2011 can bring the same will have to do some serious training if i want this to happen.

Latest injury is a knee injury, not quite sure what i have done to it yet but i have spoken to Matt and he has given me a few things to research and i think it could possibly be Lateral Colateral Ligament issues and just a mild strain. Hoping it is as the new wall opens soon an im really keen to get there on a regular basis and fid my motivation to train again as i lost it working too much at the wall. At least a new wall will be a completly new atmosphere and somewhere i can truely chill out and focus on the climbing.

Depot Dismay

Headed the Depot yesterday for the battle of britain, personally i wasnt expecting to do well as the problems are always hard.

But damn i didnt expect to be that shit! haha, managed to haul my fat arse up 17 of the 30 problems set, although i only managed to flash 15 of them. puntered about and fell off a v2 an v3 just for being an idiot.

Gotta say i do have ultimate respect for the boulderers who compete, the level of fitness needed is unbelievable.

Pretty keen to get back there and have a go on some of the harder problems i couldnt do, maybe really work them an put some effort in.

Well we will see if i can improve this week if we go the Rockover for there comp on Friday.