Northumberland Joy

After a cracking session at Longridge last week the psyche had returned to boulder. Finding myself with some time off me and Helen decided on a four day trip up to Northumberland, I'd always heard good reports about the place but just never found myself the time or the weather to get up there. This was to be the weekend though!
A week spent watching the weather hoping and praying that we had at least two dry days, Thursday night came and the forecast was set to be good Friday evening right through to Monday morning. I can deal with the cold just as long as it's not wet, too many times do you find yourself huddled under a steep roof with what seems to be every man and his dog trying your best to climb on some real rock, when in fact the time would have been better spent training indoors. There was a few main places on my hit list; Bowden, Back Bowden and Kyloe In The Woods.
A quick chat to Hession on the Tuesday and we found ourselves assembling a small crew of four of us heading up. Going anywhere with Rich is brilliant he's like taking a walking talking guidebook who has either been and done a problem or if not more than likely watched a video of it in the shop. After some miscommunication it ended up just being Me, Helen and Rich in the van, this is sometimes better as there isn't pressure to climb at a certain place which can happen when there is a few people in a group.
Friday comes and the weather isn't looking great for that day, but I was busy with work in the morning so we couldn't leave until midday anyway, then we hoped for an evening session somewhere but the weather had other plans. Even with the rain Rich being like a child in a sweet shop still manages to find some dry bits of rock and climbs two easy problems at Bowden then got a nice 7a second go. Back to the campsite for tea and a few beers.....
Saturday 12th May
Waking up Saturday to glorious sunshine and clear blue skies, psyched!! The plan was to head back to Bowden then hopefully go round to Back Bowden in the afternoon, double session and checking two venues. We headed down the far end and towards a classic problem called Lightbulb (6a) and wow what a problem, nice little short prow followed by a high right foot to mantle on to the top of this boulder that looks like a lightbulb. As we headed back we picked out the classics and even scared ourselves with a few highballs, unfortunately the roof section i had a list of problems i wanted to try was in the middle of a lake, a large deep puddle had formed at the bottom which wrote all them problems off.
I have a personal goal of trying to climb a new 7a every time i go out. So time to try one, the one i had in mind was Transformer Direct (7a) a variation on a classic 6a+, which involved a long reach from a good hold with a solid right toe hook to drop into an undercut, slap round to a sloper then big move to a break, match the break and rock over to a slopey crimp match a break and finish. Class problem and really psyched to get it third go!
We decided to finish off at Bowden and move round to Back Bowden where there was a huge film crew with some of The North Face athletes, this was a bit of a pain but i got to see Hazel Findlay! Deffo one for the DFBWGC!!!!
Arriving here i was made up to see that the majority of problems where situated in a very steep roof, now i know why Steve built the triple roof in the crypt! Felt like perfect training for this venue. Rich pointed me towards Low and Hard (7b) this started on two incut undercuts and a goos foot rail, pulling on i quickly realised my biceps would be getting a work out as the first move felt desperate. Luckily i was pleased to pull on after this hard move and do the top section first go, this meant i had one move and i could do the whole problem, i pulled on again and felt a lot stronger. I was probably just warming into the move, as the next go i nailed the intermediate hold and slapped again to the right hand edge, kept my feet on, pulled around and i was at the boss, matching this i felt i can't blow it now sorted my feet out and rocked around up to the top hold and wooped with joy!
Not only had a done a 7b in very quick succession but it was also my first for over a year!!!

Sunday 13th May
We awoke again to dry weather but also with a hallowing gale that was bitter, after a bacon butty to start the day the plans came to head up to Hepburn, up to the classic that was The Northern Soul (7a+). Upon arrival we were all a bit dubious about whether we would actually be out of the wind, after wrestling some pads onto our back we headed up and to our surprise even the boulders quite high were slightly out of the wind. A few easy problems nailed and we were slightly warmed up so headed over to find the main reason we went. I'll be totally honest when saying after arriving at the Northern Soul boulder i was intimidated, but damn it looks like someone paid to have Cuvier moved over to the North. As goes to show though Rich pulled some fantastic climbing out the bag and after a few goes walked up the problem and to be perfectly honest it looks amazing and will be one to go back for!
With our move came the bitterly cold wind so we decided to move on to Kyloe In The Woods, I had a couple of things i had looked at in the guide i had my eye on so was keen for this change, only thing was there wasn't much easy stuff for Helen to try. After a sketchy walk in through a pine forest with high winds and very very creeky trees we arrived at the crag and i was pretty surprised i thought it would a bit more aesthetic. But one major thing the quality of the problems did not disappoint , we started off on a couple of the easier 6a's down the left hand end, i've had to try hard on 6a before but this is a new level!!
All feeling pretty tired and cold we jumped on the harder things, Rich being the nice guy he is trying to show me the beta for Monty Python's but with him struggling i decided to give it a miss and try the classic Jocks and Geordies (6c) getting into the last move on the flash and flapping it i was a bit frustrated, got on and jumped to the final sloper and i had done it! Walking down t discover the rest of the crag we found it was greener than Kermit the frog!! But we found on slightly dry problem called Flying Scotsman (7a) through a huge roof it looked amazing and Rich destroyed in a few goes. On the walk back i decided i would try the sitter to Jocks and Geordies which goes at 7a i know it easy to add an extension to a problem to grab the grade but after watching the Ginger struggle then actually finding a completely different sequence I decide it would go and it did second go!! BOOM 3 sevens in 2 days!! Best trip ever!

So far!

Monday 14th May

With the wind we were all a bit dubious on where to head today so after some deliberation we ended up coming up with a slight plan of heading to Shaftoe so even with the bad forecast if we got rained off we could head down to either Climb Newcastle or The Depot. Arriving in dry weather we walked up to the spread out problems which in fact where on a lot more course grain sandstone than we expected, so with 2 day old skin we felt it it pretty hard pretty quick. We decided with the forecasta quick hit up of Slapper (7a) and for Rich a look at Purely Belter (8a) *Strokes chin* and a flash of Surprising Solution we were done and headed home!

All in all a very good weekend and in all honesty probably my best short trip within the UK.
Keep peeled for a video.

And well done to Shauna Coxsey in Innsbruck.... BEASTIO!!!

Taking the chance

So unless you have been hiding in a cave you will be aware of the shocking weather that has been her in the UK for the past two months. Opportunities to get out have been limited and the temps still relativelycold for the time of year. After six days out in North Wales with Helen i came to the conclusion i'm going to give the trad a break until it gets warmer, it's just not fun sat on a ledge freezing your nads off! This led to focusing on bouldering again and setting a few goals and hopeully with the prospect of a trip to Hueco in the pipeline i realised it's time to get strong. I've been enjoying working at the wall the past few months and having the chance to set 25 problems for the summer bouldering league i could use it as an opportunity to set some training style problems and that i did. Out of the 25 problems there is still 9 i can't do, some of which are miles away others are in overlapping halves and will be done soon.
A couple of weeks ago i was on a our day kayaking course up in Clitheroe which i realised wasn't far away from Craig-Y-Longridge. After a visit a couple of years ago i had good memories of the place and knew i wanted to go back stronger, i headed there one evening for a short session. Conditions weren't brilliant and things felt quite greasy but i tried a few classics but all without success, one problem i really wanted to try was Big Marine the super classic 7a+, being like a child in a sweet shop i think i tried about 50 problems in an hour so very little rest and little skin. "Oh won't be a good idea to try Big Marine" now i was tired, i pulled on and could barely do the first move. I left feeling disapointed and weak.
Having spent the majority of time indoors still and not really touching real rock i was keen to get back out and the forecast for the bank holiday weekend was good but there was me on another kayaking course! Always the way. Luckily though the course had finished by 4 on Sunday and i didn't feel too tired so thought i would head back via Longridge again. After arriving i had to dig deep to find some psyche to actually go and climb, always find this hard when climbing alone. Pads on my back, bag packed with boots and water i was good to go, as i walks through the gate i seen a regular face of Ian Vickers. But he and Gill were packing up to leave, never a good sign knowing the amount of time he has spent their!! As suspected he said it's a bit greasy and thinks its only just dried out.

I thought to myself well i'm never going to get any stronger if i just drive home so put my boots on and warmed up. Climbing alone is really hard because you have to be very disiplined with resting otherwise you just power out. I was looking for something around the 7a mark to try so got on the sitter to Muscles In Their Imagination which i came close to but just couldn't stick one move! I then jumped on Fertile Delta but got scared near the top so jibbed it off. Time now to jump on Big Marine again with some skin and energy and wow i surprised myself by getting up to the gaston of the last move, getting a bit scared again i jumped off and grabbed the ladder to inspect the top holds and give them a brush. A few more goes and i keep wimping out of the last move again and again! A quick MTFU self talk and i find myself in the same situation but this time a slight alteration of the body and BOOM! i'm hanging off the final jug cheering to myself. I jump down with a massive grin on my face to see a guy in his back garden laughing at me, well at least i had one witness.
Great session with a great tick and i find myself psyched to go forth and crush!

Sun = Fun

There is something strangely satisfying about visiting a new crag, sometimes these end up being world class and you wonder how you had never been there before, others you can't wait to leave and never return. Each year i try and set myself a goal to visit 20 new crags in the UK, so far this year i have managed to go to 6 already! Two of which are local sandstone venues, the other week on a sunny afternoon i paid a visit to the recently developed and cleaned up Harmers Wood and this afternoon i also visited The Breck. Ok so i won't be rushing back to their in a hurry but it has reignited a sense of psyche for the local venues, i don't know what it is about them whether it is the fact i go and ALWAYS get spanked, i leave and have rarely climbed harder than 6b but feel battered. Hoping the next time i return  things will feel easier but they never do!
With the weather being as good as its has it means the local venues are now dry, albeit they are slightly too hot in the direct sunlight, the backside of Granny Rock at the Breck was in the shade and had some sweet little link ups and eliminates and was a pleasant way to burn off a hangover.
Saturday was never going to be a long day out due to a stag do i was attending in the afternoon i managed to convince Helen in getting up super early and having a morning at Dyserth Waterfall which was definitely worth getting up for. Nice venue with some easy climbing well bolted in and absolutely beautiful location. Although i did receive a major shutdown on a 7a i couldn't get near. it was desperate and felt more Font 7a than French 7a, but the 7c's that go through the roof look so good and i visit with senior Psyche will be in order soon.
Just a quick update and hopefully a visit to Pex Hill this week will give me another spanking so keep peeled.

It's Board Time.

Ok so the past twelve months of my climbing have been riddled with injuries. A year ago we were preparing to go to Switzerland and my aim was to climb a 7c, but a few weeks before the trip i suffered from an A2 strain. So i went on yet another trip not being 100% fit and ready. I've realised from reading up and speaking to a lot of experienced people that the only way to avoid injury is to train the finger specifically, i.e fingerboard, campus etc. Where the fingers are loaded and strained in a controlled manor, so when on a route or boulder problem the fingers are conditioned if a foot should pop then the they are used to the stress. Each time i feel i have been getting back to health before starting to fingerboard i have always managed to go one session too many and get re-injured.
Last week seen me have my first session on the woody in well over a year. It was a mixed session as i didn't seem to have lost much strength, but i have trained around my injuries with running, core and weights so i feel my overall health and fitness is at the best it's ever been. The next day however my body could definitely tell i had hit it hard, so an easy route session was done to flush out the build up of toxins. After the double session i felt it was time to hit the fingerboard with a light session on the Thursday, this went well but i had a little ache in my middle finger where i felt a strain a few weeks back, the next day it was back to normal and it felt ok. With four days rest tomorrow is route session of mostly stamina training, followed by a board session either Thursday evening or Friday depending how i feel.

I have found it hard to fit running into my schedule as i have been working a lot lately, so i was keen to buy a road bike and start cycling to work. I cycled a few times last year but found it hard to get motivated, with the nice weather i managed to find myself a bargain Scott on Ebay and bought it!! Yes it was a bit of an impulse buy but hopefully i'll save a few pennies on fuel and shift the last few pounds i need to.

After a slight set back on the MIA front, this year is going to be a year of climbing multi discipline and getting down to the 7c front of bouldering. Getting the psyche back to go out and work a 7b in a session and get 7c's pretty quickly. So training will be getting hit hard soon.
Hopefully going to either try and get a deal on some Beastmaker holds or make some similar ones for the woody.

Motivation!

Motivation

Defined in the dictionary as:

1. the act or an instance of motivating

2. desire to do; interest or drive

3. incentive or inducement

4. (Psychology) Psychol the process that arouses, sustains and regulates human and animal behaviour

When training finding motivation can sometimes be tough, especially if you are having to train at random times due to work, a lot of the time you can end up with only your own will power and creativity to create new problems on the board.
Having just spent a week in Scotland with the intentions of getting lots of snow and ice routes done and ending up just walking in the rain and low level cloud, i think my desire to walk has slowly been whittled down.
What is the reason you take part in a certain sport? It might be because you are good at the sport and excel pretty quickly. I can remember the first time i came climbing when i was 16 i was shocking, could barely get to the top of the bouldering wall, but one thing that stood out was even though i was no where near as good as some of the other people they were still really approachable and friendly helping out and wanting to see somebody else do well at the sport they are good at. This helped and inspired me to be honest, it made me want to go back to get to know these people and get better myself.
So carrying on coming climbing on and off for around 4 years i finally started to get more into it and climb on a regular basis and built up a group of friends within the scene. These helped me move from wall punter to outdoor punter and actually discover some of the beautiful places around the UK and abroad.
While walking one day in Scotland the weather was grim, my hood was up the wind was blowing so strong i was walking at a 45 degree angle to the side. How is somebody supposed to be motivated to go back out again the next day? What achievement are you getting out of it? What enjoyment are you getting out of it?
I suppose looking back at the days out there is the good times like when the weather does clear and you get a fantastic view of all the mountain ranges.
The point i am trying to get across is that different people find different aspects and styles of the sport enjoyable. For example Rich is just a boulderer and takes the time to train and get out to different venues around the world to climb so beautiful problems and hard ones at that! Chris is mainly a trad climber focusing all his free weekends on getting out to different cliffs and trying the classic 3 star routes. Dave is mainly a sport climber focusing on red-pointing hard routes both in the UK and abroad.
The three different styles can all interlink and the trips abroad are always spent with the evenings sat in socialising and having a laugh with friends.
It's a funny sport when some peoples motivation is to get to the summit of an 8000m peak and others is to get to the top of a 10 foot boulder but up a line thats 8b!
Two contrasting aspects but both have their own personal goal.

Goal Setting

I only started setting goals for climbing two years ago and i found that these can really help, the main reason being is that you can see an improvement in performance. You can go to a different crag and have something in mind to do, this will help you achieve the most out of a session. I find whenever i go to a new crag i try to flash/on-sight all the routes or problems up to 6c then should be aiming to get a 7a done within the session. Being flexible is required when visiting different rock types or places, i know going to Font or on the Gritstone that i should lower my expectations as it is a totally different style to what i am used to.
Using goal setting in climbing can transfer into everyday life, if you don't have any goals it is easy to just be a passenger and carry on day to day life in the easiest way possible. Everybody knows that if you do work hard you will be rewarded, so to me when walking in Scotland last week although sometimes it was tough to stay motivated i know that the goal is to become super confident at navigation in all conditions! This will help when i am on my MIA training and if i am ever in a situation with a group and the weather is bad.
My main goal in life is to be a well rounded outdoor instructor who can be confident of my own abilities in all types of situations from climbing to walking right through to kayaking or canoeing. I feel that this will help me to progress within the outdoor industry and then when at a high enough level specialise in a certain aspect.

Anyway enough chit chat back to the climbing and whats been going down!!

The week in Scotland was a total wash out in terms of ice climbing, heading up to Beinn Dearg we read that Penguin Gully a 3 star grade III is often pretty reliable and in condition from January through to late April. Certainly didn't look in condition to me it was a waterfall, which was such a shame because this meant without anymore cold weather nothing else would be in for that week.
The attention then turned to bagging a few Munro's, Munro's are the highest mountains in Scotland and there is 283 different ones in total. Having the books which gives you the routes is brilliant because you have a plan and a rough idea how long and far the day will be. Managed to get a total of 5 Munro's in the week even with the atrocious weather it was still good at times.
When i arrived home i was really keen to get back out and boulder on some real rock! The weather on Saturday looked as if it was going to totally wash out the whole of the UK for Sunday. But Owen had a back up plan with the new crag in Ruthin staying dry even in the worst conditions so we headed up to their. Wow it's a brilliant venue, it is like a mini Woodwell and some of the harder problems look really good, i was a bit cautious of my finger as this was the first time i had climbed on limestone in around 6 months. Still managed to get two 6c/+'s second go which i was pleased with and had a quick try at some 7a's which i think will definitely go next session.

Some photos below from the week in Scotland:

New stuff (Psyche)

Right so this week has gone fast, thankfully! Off up to Scotland tomorrow for a week of playing in  the white stuff. Cannot wait. This week seen the arrival of a few new gifts, first off is a pair of the Boreal Kintaro shoes only had a chance to test them out quickly this afternoon and they feel pretty good, a bit clumpy at the moment but they will soften soon.
Also i got a new camera thought i would buy one of these all singing, all dancing waterproof, shockproof, freezeproof, idiot proof Fujifilm XP30.
So keep you posted when i'm back with some new photos.
The plan for the return is to get myself a fixed training plan i stick to. I have found the time so now just need to write up a plan and train train train!!! I have found a new recent psyche to get back outdoors and boulder a lot more this year. I miss the banter days and the split tips and tying so hard you might actually poo!!! Haha.
Anyways geeza's it's time to rock and roll (hopefully not actually role this year them axes and crampons are sharp!)

Scotland soon!

How time flies! Only feels like yesterday when Roger was talking about booking the cottage up in Scotland, but with less than a week i realised i haven't climbed outdoors on a rope in England since November!! Ahh Shit! Will be a bit of a wake up call, hopefully the route training i've been doing at the wall will be transferred to outdoors within a day or so.
Away from climbing i have been converting my recently purchased VW Transporter and this weekend was a big one with changing the triple seat in the front to two single swivel seats. This wasn't as easy as i thought it was going to be, needing to drill four new holes and bolt the seats to the bases. The first one we did we drilled four holes and realised they didn't even line up! So with a bit of jiggery pokery we managed to get them on and learned just to drill one hole at a time and managed to get the other seat lined up first time!
I keep meaning to take photos of it to show it off online but every time i remember its dark outside. This week i'll get some photos up i promise.
Other than this quick update i haven't really done much, just been working lots. The final round of the Winter Bouldering League was on Friday and it was the best turn out yet. Hopefully next year i can improve on a few different things, advertise it more and thus create better turn outs to each comp.
For now my psyche is turned back to the Scottish Winter Climbs guidebook getting a nice little tick list together.

Another Cracker

Off again on another weekend with perfect grit weather!
Get in, The plan was to go Baslow and hit up the easy routes to solo and then have a little session at Flat World and The Eagle Stone. Driving over it was freezing, first day this year i've had to scrape ice off the windscreen, conditions were set to be perfect.
Arriving at a not so sunny Baslow (it was still in the shade) we decided to go over the road and warm up on Curbar Trackside Boulder. But i realised how shit that boulder is and how it makes me hate the Peak District and all the bell ends that climb there.
Rant over. We moved over the road to Baslow a mini route/highball venue; i was keen to get plenty of easy stuff done and get my head back into doing challenging moves more than 2m from the deck or from a bolt. Warming up and doing plenty of route it was good to be out again with Rich, Laura and Matt and enjoying the banter that comes part and parcel of going out bouldering. It is so much more sociable than routes, especially trad.

So that was a week ago. And i've decided to complete the post and update people with my injury and rehab.
It was a month ago that my foot popped and so did my tendon. So far my rehab couldn't be going any better. I had these almighty plans to run and do some weights but i haven't needed to i have been able to climb outdoors for four days and have plenty of sessions indoors along with some frenchies and plenty of thera-banding to build up some stability within my shoulders. Also in this time i have done plenty of route setting and even had an indoor boulder session. Now from doing all this i can pull at a reasonable strength to stress the tendon without pain, does having lots of injuries previous mean i know how to rehab? Who knows but it certainly hasn't done me any harm.

Appreciating what you have got.... This is what i have come to realise. Since returning from Spain i have managed to finish Jonny Dawes' Full of Myself and moved on to a book which couldn't be any different from this. Paul Pritchard's The Totem Pole, this is an amazingly well written book about the accident in Tasmania and all about his recovery from not being able to walk or talk to within a year living independently and returning to the scene of the accident. There is a part in the book were he is looking out of the hospital in Tasmania and is able to see the Organ Pipes where only a week before his accident he was climbing but sat in his wheelchair thinking he may never be able to walk again let alone climb. He has an amazing battle with his body and mind re-learning how to walk and improving his memory. It dawned upon me that i am so lucky to be able to travel to all these beautiful places and be able to climb and spend time with some of the best people in the world.
The book has got me psyched to go and do a big sea pillar now!! And if you haven't already read it get it and i promise you won't be able to put it down.

Out of the dark.... Into the light.

Spain

So Spain turned out to be a bit of a flop. Managed five days, started working a nice roadside 7c. After getting a sequence nailed pretty quick i decided to give a red point but turned out i was too tired, but it definitely felt like it would go and quick. After deciding to put my eggs in one basket and chase the grade, the next day was spent on the same route after getting frustratingly close still no tick! Third day on and last day left in Margalef the pressure was on, i went down feeling quite tired but with just a quick warm up a brief rest then a red point i felt it would go.
Start wired, clipping the third clip i make the big move to a right hand two finger pocket, sort feet, lock it down to a shallow dish and up to the glued on flake where i could get a breather and get some back before the next section. Rest up i sort my feet for a powerful move out left to a good pocket, clip, right hand up to another two finger pocket, left to a good edge then up to a right flatty, clip done, quick shake not feeling too bad, left hand to a good pocket, right up to a three finger slot, the foot holds are polished and poor but just one hard move and it's in the bag! Left foot up high i lock the right hand and slap to the good jug... foot pops, body cuts loose then.... POP! A rush of blood to the palm of my hand FUCK I'VE RUINED MY WHOLE TRIP!!!
I was gutted, i knew i wouldn't be able to climb again on the trip. Well time to crack open the Cerveza.
This wasn't the case i managed to top rope some stuff and even lead a nice little 5+ at Monstant on my last day.
Having or getting an injury on a trip can be hard, how are you supposed to stay positive when putting in months of effort training and spent that much money to go somewhere where you can't even climb.
I was lucky enough to be around some pretty up beat people who managed to lighten the mood and ensure i didn't slip into a DARK PLACE.... hahaha.

me on a nice 7a at Margalef

Back Home

So home for new year and a bit of work, the finger is starting to feel much better even only 10 days after the injury. With climbing lots and being prone to injury i had done plenty of research previous so knew the stages of rehab, but fingers crossed it is going much quicker than i could have hoped for.

I was keen to carry on training around the injury so have been hitting the core, pull ups and theraband hard. 

Managed an indoor route session still climbing 6b+ with no niggles and the most important part is getting plenty of blood flow to the area and deep massage to prevent the build up of scar tissue. Even this weekend i still managed to get out both days and have a nice easy circuit on some gritstone.

Saturday was in search of a new crag for me, over to Wimberry; and what an aesthetic place just a shame the boulders where greener than Kermit the frog!! Still explored and found the boulders and will head back in the summer for an easy evening circuit.

Sunday was a bit more hopeful we headed to Burbage South Boulders knowing that if there was any wind and it didn't rain then it would be dry. There was some low lying cloud but we still managed a nice circuit mainly repeating problems but still managed to get some new ones and plenty of flashes to encourage the technique.

So all in all the rehab is going well, i'm keeping a positive outlook on things and this time i now know how to train the fingers to be able to pull harder and stay injury free. This year is going to be a good one!