Kalymnos Holiday Time

Wow just got back from a week long trip to Kalymnos and the only thing i can say is that i was gobsmacked by how beautiful the place was, how nice all the people were and best of all how good the climbing was there.

After failing to train properly for the trip by having one route session before we went i was prepared to be ultimately shut down by complete lack of fitness, turns out this wasn't actually the case. So before we left i aimed realistically for goals for the trip aiming for 2 7a's.

First 2 days can't say i was feeling the strongest but there is masses of hands-off rests which when as unfit as i am you have got to milk, so managed to have an amazing day at Arhi where i managed to flash Kastor (7a) my prefect style of route, just pulling big holds down past your waist to more big holds. Was so psyched to flash it as it matched my PB.

So as the week continued i was still pushing at flashing and on-sighting more 7a's, the fitness levels continued to let me down by falling off DNA at 2nd to last clip on the flash, also trying to on-sight another 7a at Spartacus on the last move, the route was 30m long so had absolutely ruined myself and didn't get another go, well at least i've got a reason to go back!

Me on Kastor 7a

Turns out that climbing with people who climb harder than you does make a HUGE difference, until this year i was happy with the climbing i was doing and the grade i was at 6b max until i realised i have got more potential and can push the grade a lot more, one thing i have noticed is that when you go out climbing especially with people who climb harder there is a natural instinct within that makes you want to be as good as them or at least just better than you are.

Most noteably this was from some hard ascents by Shauna (Orion 7c+ on-sight, Daniboy 8a RP 3rd go) Michael (Eros 7b+ on-sight, Gladiator 7b on-sight, both placing clips!!)

When you see these ascents in person then there is nothing you can do but pull harder!

Came back from the trip super psyched to get on more sport now... hmm good choice Mark its end of route season! Well all i can do is train over the winter, boulder loads and then next year push for that 7b!

Indoors Outdoors

Well turns out the time has come to be getting ready an packing for our trip to Kalymnos.

Wow the training has gone well.... not!

Although i haven't been specifically training any form of endurance i have been climbing LOTS, had a four day period off work where i managed to get out bouldering for 3 days.

Day 1 - Caseg Boulders

what a beautiful setting right next to the river sun was shining, no wind, climbing with tops off in October?? if anything it was a little bit too warm. Either way that didn't stop the crush, with Rich, Sean an Mike managing to all make short work of Don't Drink Think 7a+. And i managed to get Caseg Groove 6c done which i was very pleased with also an outstanding climb amazing moves.

later that day after a chilled coffee in V12 Llanberis we went to Jerry's Roof where i was trying the tourist tick an felt fairly strong good sign.

Day 2 - Parisella's Cave

After a long day i felt like a wreck so wasn't expecting much, but with the finger feeling fairly strong thought i would try Bust Lip and about 4th go when i got the heel-toe to work i managed to dispatch it so another 7a+ for the year which brings the total tally up to 6 for the year! So psyched.

Day 3 - Wavelength and Beyond

Lordy Lordy had caught my eye in the guide book and with a couple of recommendations off other people i thought it might be worth a visit. What a trek to get to it though felt like i was out on an ML day. Turns out it was totally worth the walk in, such a technical style problem so all down to balance and body positioning.

Then we headed down so Sean, Mike and Rich could try the Lotus, which is an amazing looking problem, with a quality V4 next to it.

Down then to Wavelength where after a couple of goes i managed to get King of Drunks (7a) done, what a tick for me as i tried it earlier in the year and was so close to it. Really good to see the training and just generally climbing more is paying off.

Also my first 7a in the mountains!

Back to work for 6 days then and time to squeeze in a route session before i head away.

Really productive session as well, managed to get the 7a i was trying on the back wall done and plenty of 6's feeling a lot more mentally prepared now for the trip.

So will keep you posted on how it goes when i get back.