Tuesday 2 November 2010

Kalymnos Holiday Time




Wow just got back from a week long trip to Kalymnos and the only thing i can say is that i was gobsmacked by how beautiful the place was, how nice all the people were and best of all how good the climbing was there.
After failing to train properly for the trip by having one route session before we went i was prepared to be ultimately shut down by complete lack of fitness, turns out this wasn't actually the case. So before we left i aimed realistically for goals for the trip aiming for 2 7a's.
First 2 days can't say i was feeling the strongest but there is masses of hands-off rests which when as unfit as i am you have got to milk, so managed to have an amazing day at Arhi where i managed to flash Kastor (7a) my prefect style of route, just pulling big holds down past your waist to more big holds. Was so psyched to flash it as it matched my PB.
So as the week continued i was still pushing at flashing and on-sighting more 7a's, the fitness levels continued to let me down by falling off DNA at 2nd to last clip on the flash, also trying to on-sight another 7a at Spartacus on the last move, the route was 30m long so had absolutely ruined myself and didn't get another go, well at least i've got a reason to go back!
Me on Kastor 7a

Turns out that climbing with people who climb harder than you does make a HUGE difference, until this year i was happy with the climbing i was doing and the grade i was at 6b max until i realised i have got more potential and can push the grade a lot more, one thing i have noticed is that when you go out climbing especially with people who climb harder there is a natural instinct within that makes you want to be as good as them or at least just better than you are.


Most noteably this was from some hard ascents by Shauna (Orion 7c+ on-sight, Daniboy 8a RP 3rd go) Michael (Eros 7b+ on-sight, Gladiator 7b on-sight, both placing clips!!)
When you see these ascents in person then there is nothing you can do but pull harder!
Came back from the trip super psyched to get on more sport now... hmm good choice Mark its end of route season! Well all i can do is train over the winter, boulder loads and then next year push for that 7b!


2 comments:

  1. Nail yourself to the 45 board!

    Going to look in town for some strong training pants for the winter board season, then on to awful walls for 2nd day on!

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  2. didnt even need you to push me towards the 45 was psyched for a session last night until i realised you have to que!

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