Went to a new venue for me on sunday headed out to Anston Stones and Roach Abbey on Sunday.
Had a cracking session managed to get a new 7a and 7a+ done at Anston, not sure of the names of them think they are called Blind Bat and Last Stand.
When walking upto Anston i wasn't expecting much as the air was damp and the floor was soaking, but turned out to be pretty dry up at the crag itself. However that cant be said for when we were at Roach Abbey as the air was damp and i took a big ping and bail!! Hurt at the time but wasnt half funny looking back at it.
Monday morning woke up psyched for a Cave session... after working Beaver Cleaver for most of the session i thought i was going to leave and have a tickless session until i asked Rich about some problems on the right of the lip. He showed me the beta on Lipstick RH which i managed to do first go with the beta, after that i was psyched for the original Lipstick so jumped on it pretty knackered but it didnt feel impossible... as it was getting dark i could barely see the footholds i managed to pull it out of the bag! So left the cave with 2 new ticks 6c and 7a!
Tuesday i woke up and felt like i had been in a train wreck i was shattered!! good sessions tho!
So Thursday comes and im super psyched to go back an get back on Beaver Cleaver to try get it done, warming up would prove to be the main constraint today as there was a baltic wind blowing right into the cave and it was freezing.
Noticed on the guide that RWT into Lipstick RH gets 7a so mid warm up i jumped on it and did it first go! proper happy.
Warm up deffo went well for Rich as he jumped on Oppatrocity gave it a quick RP falls mid moves then a few more warm ups and crushes the fuck out of it!!! Another 8a in the back for the strong Ginger. Good work fella!!
Gets on Beaver Cleaver and tried again.... and tried is what i did! i put so much effort into but just cannot stick the move from the undercut into the pinch on the lip! Well i suppose a way to look at it is that i am making progress each session so hopefully will build up the strength to get it nailed before the end of the year!
Again right at the end of the session as everyone was sat there freezing their tits off i asked rich for some more beta this time on Clever Cleaver from the stand up start, pulls on an trys to get the heel up but bailed! Psyched i had a rest jumped back on an crushed it!!
I think its a new pb to get a 7a+ done in like 4 goes!
Gives me a goal now to do it from the crouch start an get the 7b+
So rest the weekend and back monday again!
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